D.S.
I gave birth to my son last year at BirthCare Birthing center in Alexandria, VA - and I live in Baltimore! It was a great experience, and if you are at any birthing center the midwives there will definately be well prepared to take care of any upexpected difficulties that could arise, and you will be required to have a back up doctor. That is standard practice, even if you home birth with them. In fact, I chose to give birth at the birthing center for the very reason that I felt and thought (and I did a lot of research on this) it was SAFER than being in a hospital. The midwives whole career is helping women give birth naturally, they are well experienced, caring, well prepared even if emergencies arise and they are very skilled at ensuring the best outcomes for mom and baby!!
My experience was great, and drug-free, and I have very positive memories of my son's birth - even though the 45 minute drive to the center kinda stunk, it was not all that bad. Labor was hard work, and while the only pain I felt during contractions was in my tailbone, it was very intense from the onset of my labor (12 hours + 3 hrs in transition (God forbid!) and 45 minutes pushing). I truly adored the attentive care I received and I believe the relaxed environment and the quality care and knowledge of the midwife attending me and my birthing assistant helped me have a great birth. Besides, the whirlpool tub was a big plus (my son was 7 minutes from being born in it!) and it was nice to be able to eat and drink freely. The other plus to a birthing center is that you can birth your child freely and in any position you feel is right for you. The ability to give birth in any position is also a big factor in preventing un-necessary interventions and their consequent problems (i.e. forceps, vaccuum, etc.) Midwives are also familiar and supportive of natural birth, so you will not risk feeling like a pariah in their care - you'll get their support instead of their consternation as I have heard from many friends experiences in a variety of hospitals when they tried to have a drug-free, natural birth - the labor nurses just treated them like they were crazy.
Also, I have never heard of a CNM being able to give an epidural - even ob/gyns don't do that as it is the role of an anesthsiologist. Double check that, it doesn't jive for me.
I hope this helps, and I hope you are able to find a solution that works for you to have a great birth where you can truly feel SAFE and comfortable. If you have to drive a ways, it really is not that big of a deal - especially when you are mentally prepared for it. (with that, I must admit I still dreaded the drive down! But it was fine in the end!)
Take care, and best of luck with your pregnancy, birth and new baby!
D.